Gasherbrum IV Italian Expedition

From 10th of June until the first week of August 2018 our Guide Marco Majori will try to make the first repetition after 60 years of the Mauri-Bonatti route on the north-east ridge of G4 7925m in Karakoram.

With him will be the alpinist: Marco Farina, Daniele Bernasconi, Maurizio Giordano and the expedition chief Valerio Stella.

BOLIVIA

THE ITALIAN SIGNAUTURE
Illimani 6438m - Parete Sud - DIRECTA ITALIANA

Illimani 6438m – South Face – DIRECTA ITALIANA

Farina impegnato sulla roccia

Farina on the rock

Illimani 6438m - Cima!

Illimani 6438m – Summit!

CICE
Alpamayo Negro 5428m - ARISTA de CICE

Alpamayo Negro 5428m – ARISTA de CICE

Ammirando l'alba in cima al Pequeno Alpamayo

Sunrise from the summit of Pequeno Alpamayo

Marco Majori - Guide Alpine Bormio

Marco Majori – SMAM Alpinist – Mountain Guide

Thanks to: C.S. ESERCITO, MONTURA, KONG, FERRINO, WILD CLIMB

Soundtrack: My Silver Lining – First Aid Kit

GRAND PILIER D’ANGLE 4243m Divine Providence Route

All the routes on Grand Pilier d'Angle

All the routes on Grand Pilier d’Angle

RED= Walter Bonatti and Cosimo Zappelli (Jun 22-23th, 1962). Difficulty ED- Length: 750m total length for mont blanc 1350m GREEN= Walter Cecchinel and Georges Nominé (Sep 16-17th, 1971). Difficulty V/V+/ED Length: 750m total length for mont blanc 1350m YELLOW= Via Divine Providence, Patrick Gabarrou and Francois Marsigny (Jul 05-06-07-08th, 1986). Difficulty V/VI/VII/A2/A3/EX Length: 900m total length for mont blanc 1500m CYAN= Via Faux pas, Jan Fijackowski and Jaclk Kozaczkiewicz (Aug 06-07-08-09-10th, 1983). Difficulty IV/IV+/A1/TD+/ED- Length: 900m total length for mont blanc 1500m PINK= Walter Bonatti and Toni Gobbi (Aug 01-02-03th, 1957). Difficulty VI/V/V+/A1/ED- Length: 900m total length for mont blanc 1600m WHITE= Via diretta Cecoslovacca, Rudolf Haiducik, Jaroslav Jasko and Ondrej Pochyly (Jul 19-20-21-22th, 1984). Difficulty VI+/A2/EX- Length: 900m total length for mont blanc 1600m BLACK= Via Polacca, Eugeniusz Chroback, Tadeusz Laukajtys and Andrey Mroz (Jul 19-20-21-22th, 1984). Difficulty VI+/A2/A3/EX- Length: 800m total length for mont blanc 1400m BLUE= Walter Bonatti and Cosimo Zappelli (Oct 11-12th, 1963). Difficulty V+/TD+ Length: 600m total length for mont blanc 1050m Divine Providence’s Topo: Divine Providence-Scudo

Topo: M. Majori

See the description and photos on the italian page