From 10th of June until the first week of August 2018 our Guide Marco Majori will try to make the first repetition after 60 years of the Mauri-Bonatti route on the north-east ridge of G4 7925m in Karakoram.
With him will be the alpinist: Marco Farina, Daniele Bernasconi, Maurizio Giordano and the expedition chief Valerio Stella.
Mountain Guide UIAGM – Ski Instructor – Stelvio National Park Guide
When I was thirteen years old, after spending four years with the ski club trying to understand the difference between a red gate and a blue gate, my father, Giovanni (a Mountain Guide) gave me the most beautiful experience of my life when he took me to the top of Mount Cevedale!
It was there that I discovered not only a new amazing place but also what I wanted to do for the rest of my life.
After putting my “promising” skiing career an hold, I became involved in athletics and ski mountaineering racing, in order to be costantly fit for climbing.
Thanks to my sports skills, I have achieved some important results and have been called up to both the national team and the Italian army, to represent them in cross country running and ski mountaneering races. In 2007 I stopped serious competitions to concentrate on my studies and I graduated in environment and territory engineering at Politecnico of Milan in 2011. In 2013 I became a Mountain Guide UIAGM and also a Ski Instructor and my passion turned in a work and a lifestyle.
I was born in Bormio in January 1954. I have a lot of memories about my mountain initiation: the first ski runs with the Ski Club Bormio, the ascents with my brother and the first ski mountaineering races when I was 14…
At that time I wasn’t fully aware of what the mountain was giving me, but over the years this became something necessary and irreplaceable. When the junior high school was over, I decided to go to the technical high school Feltrinelli in Milan because of my good manual skills. This adventure lasted only one year, but it enabled me to understand what I really wanted to do as an adult!
I wanted to live among the mountains, to breathe their essence every day…